Jason Wu New York Fashion Week S/S 2013

Pure celebration of contrasts: this is what comes to mind looking at the new collection presented in NYC by the young Jason Wu.  It does not happen so often that two opposite interpretations of feminine beauty are mixed up in such a delightful manner. Nevertheless, even this time the promising talent, landed just some years ago in the US and quickly become a fashion idol, has released breathtaking garments matched in quite an unusual way.

The tension between strength and aggressive feminine sensuality, emphasized by the recourse to black leather, and gentle delicacy of brighter colors seems actually the real mantra of this collection. Materials, colors, shapes are well mixed together so as to better reproduce the often contradictory and complex feminine personality: black leather goes hand by hand with bright chiffon and lace, but also with delicate fantasies applied on soft fabrics. The urban strength and courage of a modern woman stays side by side with a more traditional romanticism, there’s no side of women’s psyche that is left behind.

Together with black, few are the colors chosen: among them, white is no doubt the absolute protagonist of the collection, but even navy blue, nude and purple play their role. Romantic long and transparent skirts alternate with high-waist and minimal shorts, as well as with wider and morbid skirts, coupled with more aggressive black leather bras.
This perpetual contrast of materials does develop very adherent shapes that truly emphasize the feminine body: from the adherent sheath dress embellished with Chantilly lace ornaments to high-waist skirts matched with transparent super long gloves, to transparent shirts and skirts decorated with retro motives, curves are exalted though a deep study of materials and colors. Together with leather and lace, even organza, tulle, silk jersey, satin and chiffon are massively used by the designer with an essential, careful and masterly touch.

The final complements to these hyper studied clothes are patent leather sandals with ankle straps and rigid bags, a perfect equilibrium with the complexity of the dresses: perfect outfits for a dinner out with fiancés, but also for nightclubbing on rooftops with friends, these creations do not pretend to revolutionize the modern fashion. Nevertheless they stand out of the crowd, for sure.