Vivienne Tam Tokyo AW 2013

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The message embedded in Vivienne Tam's work ever since she started designing back in the 1980's, has always been of tolerance, individual expression and an idealistic vision of globalism which transcends politics and its agitation. With the same inspiration that brought to the world the extremely influential "Mao" and "Buddha" collections, she surfaces equally unusual and memorable ideas for her latest creations, presented at Japan Fashion Week.

Exotic imagery and innovation for a reinterpretation of the Chinese culture: Tam puts together an aggressive combination of strong, almost upsetting colors and crowded pop prints on almost every piece. Black, white and a deep red dominate several very cleanly cut dresses and coats, all unrevealing and with genderless, loose fits. Also blended in between her fun figures wearing dark sunglasses are Chinese characters of different sizes, juxtaposed on lace or on a bright tartan background. The designer employs an abundant quantity of leather and technical materials, sewn together in asymmetrical lines and closed up with zippers.

The overall resulting impression is of a severe yet rebel military party walking down a very narrow slip of catwalk, plunged into absolute red. The soldier-like figures wear worker belts, badges on their coats and cartridge-like decorations on their dresses, all finished up by an austere, somber makeup and hairdo. Yet this apparently unequivocal boyish look seems to leave space for more feminine elements, given by hints of sequins and sheer material, lace details, and some very exposing skirt lengths.